A nicely-built deck may last for many years. But a deck that’s rotting or missing fasteners, or that moves once you walk upon it, could be dangerous. Decks built by inexperienced do-it-yourselfers, not inspected once they were built, or more than 15 years old (building codes were different in the past!) are prone to serious problems. Annually, everyone is severely injured, even killed, when decks like these fall down. This has usually happened during parties as soon as the Lincoln deck repair was loaded with guests.
Now for the good news. A lot of the fixes are quick, inexpensive and simple. Home centers and lumberyards carry the various tools and materials you’ll need. Or visit strongtie.com to discover local stores that stock anchors, post bases and connectors.
In this article, we’ll explain to you the signals of your dangerous deck-and ways to fix the problems. If you’re still unclear whether your deck is safe, have it inspected by the local building inspector.
Fasten the ledger for the house with lag screws. Drive them fast using a corded drill and socket. Every lag screw should have a washer.
The ledger board holds in the end of the deck that’s versus the house. When the ledger isn’t well fastened, the deck can easily fall from the house. A building inspector we talked with said the most prevalent trouble with DIY decks is ledger boards improperly fastened to the house. To get a strong connection, a ledger needs 1/2-in. x 3-in. lag screws (or lag bolts for those who have access through the inside to fasten the washers and nuts) driven every 16 in. This ledger board was fastened mostly with nails as an alternative to lag screws (with out washers).
Starting at one end of the ledger board, drill two 1/4-in. pilot holes. Counterbalance the holes therefore the top isn’t aligned using the bottom hole. Then drive the lag screws (with washers) using a drill and an impact socket (you’ll need a socket adapter that suits within your drill). Don’t countersink the screws-that only weakens the ledger board.
Fill every nail hole in joist hangers, using joist hanger nails only. If you find other sorts of nails, replace these with joist hanger nails.
Granted there are tons of nail holes inside a joist hanger-but they all need to be filled. Otherwise, the hangers can pull loose through the ledger board or rim joist. Deck builders sometimes drive a few nails in the hangers to hold them set up, then forget to include the rest later. This deck had simply a single nail in some joist hangers. In other areas, it had a bad nails. Joist hanger nails would be the only nails acceptable. These short, fat, galvanized nails are engineered to keep the hangers in position under heavy loads and resist corrosion from treated lumber.
Prop up the deck with temporary braces in order to get rid of the rotted post. Stop jacking whenever you hear the deck set out to creak.
Deck posts that rest directly on footings absorb water and then they rot, especially posts that aren’t pressure treated (such as this one, which can be cedar). As the post rots, it loses its strength and can’t retain the deck’s weight. Newer decks keep your concrete footings a couple of inches above ground and use a unique base bracket to keep the posts dry. Replacing a rotted post is the ideal solution. Before taking out the post, be sure you have everything you need for the replacement, together with a wedge anchor.
Clear grass or stone outside the bottom of the deck post. Prod along the base of the post having a screwdriver or perhaps an awl. When the wood is spongy or pieces easily peel away, you’ll should replace the post. Begin with nailing 2x4s or 2x6s together to use as temporary braces. Place scrap wood on the floor to get a pad within 3 ft. in the post being replaced, then set a hydraulic jack over it. Cut the brace to size, set one end around the jack and set the other end within the rim joist. Slowly jack up the brace until it’s wedged tight. Take care not to go crazy. You’re just bracing the deck, not raising it. If you hear the joist boards creak, then stop. Then place a second brace on the other side of the post (Photo 1). (Should you don’t have jacks, you are able to rent them.) Or you can set your temporary braces entirely on the pads and drive shims involving the posts as well as the rim joist.
Mark the post location about the footing, then get rid of the post by cutting with the fasteners that tie it to the rim joist. Make use of a metal blade within a reciprocating saw (or knock out your post using a hammer). If there’s already a bolt sticking out from the footing, utilize it to install a new post base. If not, you’ll should put in a 3/8- by 4-in. wedge anchor. Try this by placing the post base with the marks in which the old post sat, and then mark the center. Eliminate the post base and drill the center mark having a 3/8-in. masonry bit. Drill down 3 in., then blow the dust out of the hole.
Tap the anchor in the hole using a hammer (Photo 2). Install the post base over the anchor. While you tighten the nut about the anchor, the clip expands and wedges tight from the hole’s walls to keep itself in position.
Cut a treated post to fit involving the post base and the top of the rim joist. Set the post into place and tack it towards the post base with 8d or 10d galvanized nails (Photo 3). Place a level alongside the post. When it’s plumb (straight), tack it in position to the rim joist. Then get a connector and drive carriage bolts through the rim joist (see Problem 4 below).
Strengthen post connections with carriage bolts. Drill holes, knock the bolts through, then tighten a washer and nut on the opposite side.
Ideally, posts should sit directly underneath the beam or rim joist to back up the deck. In case the posts are fastened aside of the beam or rim joist, such as the one shown here, the load is put about the fasteners that connect the post for the deck. This deck had only three nails from the post-a recipe for collapse. Nails alone aren’t strong enough for this particular job, regardless how many you make use of. For the strong connection, you want 1/2-in.-diameter galvanized carriage bolts.
Add 2 of these bolts by drilling 1/2- in. holes with the rim joist and post. An 8-in.-long 1/2-in. drill bit costs $10. The length of the bolts is determined by the dimensions of your post and also the thickness of your rim joist (add them and get bolts no less than 1 in. more than your measurement). We used 8-in. bolts, which experienced two 1-1/2- in. rim joists plus a 3-1/2-in. post. Tap the bolts through using a hammer, then give a washer and nut on the other side.
Stiffen a wobbly deck by using a diagonal brace run from corner to corner. Drive two nails per joist.
If your deck turns into a case of your shakes whenever you walk across it, there’s probably no reason for concern. Still, occasionally, the deck movement puts extra stress around the fasteners and connectors. After a while, the joists can pull out of the rim joist or ledger board and twist out of their vertical position, which weakens them. Fastening angle bracing underneath the deck will stiffen it and remove the sway. The braces are mostly hidden from view and let you walk on your deck without feeling like it’s planning to fall down at any moment.
Manage a treated 2×4 diagonally from corner to corner, beneath the deck. Drive two 16d galvanized nails from the brace into each joist. If your single board won’t span the distance, use two, overlapping the braces by at the very least two joists. Cut the bracing flush with all the outside edge of the deck.
Pry the siding outside the house and take away the deck board that’s across the ledger to get rid of just how for new flashing.
The location throughout the ledger board should be watertight. Even small leaks can result in mold within the walls of the home and, a whole lot worse, your house rim joist (which supports the ledger) will rot and the ledger will fall off. Stand or crawl under the deck and look at the ledger board. Should you don’t view a metal or plastic lip over the top of the ledger board, add the flashing. Flashing was completely missing with this deck.
To include flashing, first get rid of the deck board that runs alongside the home. If the boards run diagonally, snap a chalk line 5-1/2 in. through the house, then set the blade inside a circular saw towards the depth of the decking boards and cut off the board ends. (Replace the cutouts at the conclusion of the position having a 5-1/2-in.-wide board installed parallel towards the house.)
For vinyl, wood or some other lap siding, work a flat bar under the siding and gently take out the nails (Photo 1). Insert the flashing behind the siding (Photo 2). If you have a brick or stucco house, you probably won’t see any flashing as the ledgers are frequently installed directly over brick or stucco.
We used vinyl flashing, but you may also use galvanized metal or aluminum flashing. At every joist location, come up with a small cut from the flashing lip by using a utility knife so it’ll lie flat over the joists. The other lip should fit within the top side of the ledger board.
You should have flashing underneath the bottom edge of the ledger too. But since there’s not a way to incorporate it without eliminating the ledger board, operate a bead of acrylic caulk along the foot of the ledger board to seal out water (Photo 3).
Strengthen a loose railing post with carriage bolts. Drill a couple of holes with the post and framing. Angle the hole to avoid joist hangers.
Loose railings won’t cause your deck falling down, nevertheless, you could tumble off deck contractor Lincoln NE. Railing posts attached only with nails are bound to come loose, and no matter how many new nails you drive into them, you won’t solve the trouble. Instead, add carriage bolts. Measure the thickness of the post and rim joist, then buy 1/2-in.- diameter galvanized carriage bolts that length plus 1 in. Will also get a nut and washer for every single. Drill two 1/2-in. holes with the post and rim joist. Offset the holes, keeping one about 1-1/2 in. from the top of the the joist and the other the same distance in the bottom (make sure to avoid drilling when a joist abuts the rim joist). Tap the carriage bolts with the holes, then tighten the nuts until the bolt heads are set flush with all the post.