As might be expected from the former child star, justin bieber clothes has experienced many a fashion transformation throughout the years. He’s done quiffed hair and a thick gold rapper’s chain. He’s posed looking buff in Calvin Klein pants. He’s experimented using a floppy fringe as well as a suit. But even though some of his tries to toughen up happen to be met with derision, the most recent step in the Biebvolution is definitely bang in the fashion money. We have seen ripped jeans. There have been oversized hoodies, and oversized Nirvana T-shirts using the sleeves hacked off. Crucially, there has been lots of layering – and lots of raw edges.
Not every person gets it (“Justin Bieber wears bizarre frayed denim top,” was the Mirror’s reaction to his Marques’Almeida moment in the Radio 1 Teen awards earlier this month) however the latest incarnation of Bieber ties in a mood which is sweeping through menswear – and might be arriving in your wardrobe soon.
Simply speaking: scruffiness is hot. Glitzy is out. Deliberately undone and messy is. Think a Wolfgang Tillmans portrait meets 1990s grunge by using a tracksuit top along with a pierced ear thrown in for good measure. You might dub it a hot mess for males, but the thing you would never refer to it as is hipster – manicured beards should be ditched for haphazard facial hair immediately.
Undoubtedly, Marques’Almeida, the label justin bieber hoodie wore on the teen awards, has become integral to the boost in interest in denim and of jeans that happen to be hacked off and left raw. Basically, if it’s the sort of look that makes parents eyeroll and say: “You paid for that? Do want me to put proper hems on those?”, that has legs. Elsewhere around the catwalk, for his spring/summer 2016 menswear show, Raf Simons sent out herringbone trousers that had been roughly stop on the anklebone, sat above some Stan Smiths. His shrunken tank knits had a kind of moth-eaten, make-do-and-mend thing occurring; close up, the holes over these knits are layered more than a contrast fabric layer, and, actually, are far nicer than I’ve made them sound.
Justin Bieber’s winter 2015 i-D magazine cover.
This new mood – a sort of anti-luxury luxury – can there be in the glossy style magazines, too, although glossy certainly is the wrong word. Bieber’s recent cover shoot for i-D magazine is a good reference point. It sees the pop star stripped back – bleached hair, a smattering of stubble, tattoos. Shot by Alasdair McLellan, just about the most in-demand photographers in fashion, these pictures possess a typical masculine rawness. Within a short video to accompany this shoot, you can even see acne on his forehead. Imagine. Meanwhile, Tillmans has shot typically lo-fi stories for the latest Arena Homme including one called How Fragile could this be Man?, even though the Russian designer and photographer Gosha Rubchinskiy has photographed ballet dancer Sergei Polunin for Man About Town. The second sees the shaven-headed ballet dancer wearing retro sportswear with eye makeup and a few days amount of facial hair.
Haute scruff was also all over one of the more talked-about moments from the spring/summer 2016 season: the Vetements show, that has been located in a Chinese restaurant variously identified as “tacky” (Dazed & Confused), “cheap and cheerful” (Vogue Runway) and “kitschy” (Business of Fashion) and featured clothes that had been all deconstructed awkwardness and models who looked like that they had just rolled out of bed. The majority of them weren’t actually models: Rubchinskiy appeared, wearing a DHL T-shirt (yes, like in the parcel delivery service); the show stylist, Lotta Volkova, took a activate the catwalk, closing proceedings in thigh-high boots along with a raw-edged denim miniskirt. The Vetements influence in fashion is only set to carry on: once the show, one of Paris’s most historic fashion houses, Balenciaga, announced that its lead designer, Demna Gvasalia, would be to become its new creative director.
Rubchinskiy is another in the buzziest names in menswear; since 2012 his label continues to be supported by Comme des Garçons. His clothes think that a nerdy undertake Soviet sportswear – think a shellsuit top or 1980s patterned jumper. Snazzy, but not.
In fact, if all else fails, the important thing to this particular look is really a vintage-style tracksuit top. Gosha or AMI (next season) males. Chloe (next season) or Bottega Veneta resort for girls (see British Vogue’s December issue, in which several tracktops are featured as part of the “new downtown silhouette”). Basically, it’s all a little Damon Albarn circa 1996. Why does this humble zip-up sum up this new anti-luxury luxury? Firstly, mainly because it ticks the 1990s box – and the dexqpkyy16 is now the decade du jour. Secondly, it’s the exact opposite of all justin bieber t shirt that has been the headline news in menswear within the last several years. And then finally, it’s very easy to chuck on, doesn’t appear like you’ve made an attempt but suggests you are aware of what’s happening. Which feels scruffy and modern indeed.
Since you’re here …
… there exists a small favour to ask. A lot more people are reading the Guardian than ever before but advertising revenues across the media are falling fast. And unlike many news organisations, we haven’t put up a paywall – we wish to keep our journalism as open when we can. To help you realize why we must request your help. The Guardian’s independent, investigative journalism takes a lot of time, money and perseverance to make. But we all do it because we believe our perspective matters – as it might well become your perspective, too.